This is not just any birthday. This is M&S' 125th birthday.

When Minsk born Michael Marks set up a market stall in1884, little did he know that his name would remembered, loved and celebrated 125 years on, appearing on over 650 stores in the UK and over 285 around the world.

Earlier this year, Fashionista brought you a sneak preview of the August Anniversary Post. Well, the wait is over, as this month Fashionista celebrates one of our most iconic and well loved brands - M&S - which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year.

In May, we saw M&S' 125th celebrations kick off in style with a television advertising campaign fronted by sixties icon Twiggy, who first modelled for M&S in 1967 before returning to the brand in 1995. We also saw the hugely successful 3 day Penny Bazaar which was launched in stores across the country, echoing the brand's origins, where the original market stall in Leeds bore a sign saying "Don't ask the price, it's a penny" – masking Marks' inability to speak English.

With more than 70% of M&S clothing designed in-house by its designers, all products are exclusive to M&S. This is a clever marketing strategy. If you want the M&S brand, you have to go to an M&S store. Whilst many brands operate through concessions which typically sell a limited selection of a brand's full range, M&S stores have the capacity to display much more of a collection as the brand is not competing for floor space with other brands. It can sell a much larger range of products, so the customer who may have walked in for a skirt, will see the perfect shoes, bag and accessories to match - a true one stop shop!

To celebrate the 125 anniversary through fashion, M&S has already launched a spring/summer collection, with the classically elegant grey polka dot dress an immediate sell out. Another 125 collection is planned for later this year. This is a brand we all know and love. Its reputation and recognition is immense. Fashionista was fascinated to learn that:

* M&S sells around 30 pairs of men’s slippers every minute;
* In the UK, 1 in 3 women wear an M&S bra and 1 in 4 men wear M&S pants;
* Each year M&S sells enough men’s underwear to clothe the entire male population of the UK;
* Every year M&S sells enough tights and stockings to stretch from London to Hong Kong and back – nearly 12,000 miles of hosiery;
* On average, M&S sells a men’s suit every 30 seconds; and
* The number of bras that M&S sells every year would stretch to the moon and back.

It's not only the volume and breadth of its reputation that M&S is known for. This is a fashion forward high street giant – mixing with the luxury brands by pitching itself at their level, advertising in Vogue as early as 1975. Always seeking to be one step ahead of the competition, M&S:

* launched the first ever high street petite range in 1953 because the majority of women were shorter than the average of 5’5”;
* carried out the first comprehensive leg survey in 1954, to improve the fit of its stockings basing size on calf and leg measurements as well as foot size;
* trialled fitting rooms for the first time at the Plymouth M&S store in 1977. They were so popular that they were then rolled out to all M&S stores over the next few years;
* launched the first machine washable suits for men in 2001;
* launched the Limited Collection for women in 2003 providing new styles on a weekly basis in response to the demand for fast fashion; and
* launched ‘Stormwear’ in 2007 – a range of clothing for men with a unique fabric, which is water and stain repellent.

And that's not all! Loyal readers will know that Fashionista likes to be green – and applauds M&S for being green too by:

* recycling over 120 million coat hangers every year;
* using over 25 million recycled waste plastic bottles to make polyester, which is used in its homeware and bedding as well as in polyester garments;
* introducing the "Look Behind the Label" campaign in 2006 to highlight the ethical and environmentally friendly aspects of the production and sourcing methods used by M&S;
* being the first retailer to launch schoolwear made from recycled plastic bottles in 2007;
* opening its first ‘eco factory’ in Sri Lanka in 2008 (designed to be carbon neutral the factory combines energy saving devices, renewable energy and waste reduction processes); and

* launching the Oxfam Clothes Exchange in 2008 to encourage customers to recycle their old clothes, raise money to support the work of Oxfam, and reduce the amount of clothing sent to landfill in the UK.

For the Fashionista-at-Law Birthday Q&A, Fashionista was lucky enough to speak with Tania Littlehales, Head of Product PR at M&S, and asked:

(1) What is the M&S brand?

Quality Value Service Innovation and Trust are the key pillars of the brand and remain as relevant today in our 125th year as they did in 1884. Plan A - our plan to work with our customers and our suppliers to combat climate change, reduce waste, safeguard natural resources, trade ethically and build a healthier nation - is now completely integrated into the way we do business. It isn't a separate activity but represents the way we behave and act across the board.

(2) Who is the M&S customer and how has she changed over the years?

Our customers are an incredibly broad base from every walk of life and that has really always been the case. She (or he) can be any age, size, lifestyle, income or taste. It's one of the aspects that make this such a challenging and exciting business as our customers are so varied - and they often have a very clear view and idea of what M&S is to them and what they want from us.

(3) What inspires M&S?

Our customers - we get amazing feedback and input from them every day and everything we do is inspired by what they want and what we think they will want.

(4) What does the future hold for the brand?

It's our 125th Birthday this year and we plan on being around for another 125 years. We aim to continue to show that you can be both an ethical business and a profitable one (as we always have done), to continue to be a trusted retailer who offers Quality Value Service and Innovation to all our customers. We are also continuing to expand our international business both in terms of shops and with initiatives such as overseas delivery from our website.

Not wanting to wish away the summer, but Fashionista is looking forward to seeing what the Autumn/Winter 125 collection will bring, and wishes one of our most loved iconic brands a very happy and well deserved birthday. Twiggy tells us "Not bad for a Penny Bazaar". No, not bad at all...

Turning real women into goddesses for 15 years

It's July and Fashionista is in holiday mood, enjoying the long days, warm summer evenings, al fresco dining, and the height of "wedding season". What better time to wear a floaty flattering summer dress, and who better to design such a dress than Maria Grachvogel, who this year celebrates the 15th anniversary of her brand.

Adored by fashionistas everywhere (of both the "celebrity" and the "fabulous in her own right" variety), Maria Grachvogel's designs - at once classic but original - are sure to stand the test of time. The brand was established in 1994, and since its first showing at London Fashion Week in 1995, has gone from strength to strength.

To celebrate the 15th anniversary, Maria Grachvogel is launching a limited edition collection called 15 Pieces in November, signed and sold with a certificate of validation, based on Maria's favourite pieces from the last 15 years. Readers will know that Fashionista has gone green and applauds fashion houses and designers who care for the environment and who give something back. Fashionista was delighted to hear that Maria Grachvogel falls firmly in this camp, and that a proportion of the sale profits from each 15th Anniversary Collection piece will be donated to ActionAid to support women in Kenya - a project Maria has dedicated much time and energy to support. Maria has separately designed a t-shirt for PoverTee Day to further support ActionAid, adapting a print from the new season's collection: so not only is it spot-on-trend, but it is for a good cause - what better reason to shop? Fashionista also has inside word that 15 Pieces will be modelled by high profile celebrities, photographed by high profile photographers...but that's all she can say for now!

For the Fashionista-at-Law Birthday Q&A, Fashionista was lucky enough to speak with Catherine Thomas, Commercial Director at Maria Grachvogel, who explained:

(1) What is the MARIA GRACHVOGEL brand?

Maria Grachvogel is synonymous with creative luxury. Her hand printed fabrics and elegant tailoring, timeless daywear and couture collection flatter the female form using precision cutting and beautiful textures. Maria designs for real women, to make every woman feel like a goddess. From the cut of the fabric, to the way staff are trained to treat customers in store: the Maria Grachvogel brand is all about the goddess experience. The brand ethos: "turning real women into goddesses".

(2) Who is the MARIA GRACHVOGEL customer and how has she changed over the years?

She is every woman: young; old; local; international; celebrity; busy juggling families, businesses and hectic social lives. She is the lady looking for the perfect pair of trousers, dubbed the "Magic Pants", or a unique print or a personalised service which many luxury brands simply do not offer. What they all share is an appreciation of elegant timeless pieces that make a real difference to their wardrobe, and how they feel about themselves. How many stores can you go into and say "I would like that dress in a different colour please", or with sleeves, or a different length, and have it customised for you? Provided that Maria agrees and is happy to put her name to the customised design, she is happy to work with her customers to create their ideal outfit - approximately 50% of our business is for special orders.

(3) What inspires MARIA GRACHVOGEL - the designer and the brand?

To a large extent, her experiences. Maria uniquely hand paints a limited number of prints which she then translates onto garments - each size requiring a new print to ensure that it fits the garment perfectly. Maria created the beautiful Meteor print (shown above on the Meteor dress) after a holiday in Arizona, during which they spent a night in an observatory, looking up at the stars through a telescope and photographing what she saw. Maria then interpreted one of her photographs into a digital screen painting, and the Meteor print was born. It is experiences and influences such as this which make Maria's brand and designs so personal, distinctive and unique.

(4) What does the future hold for the brand?

We are very excited to be showing at New York Fashion Week later this year. This is a big development - and a natural progression - for the brand, and goes hand in hand with our launch in the US. We already have stores in Greece, Saudi Arabia, Italy and the UK, and are furthering our international presence by expanding into the Middle East due to demand from clients who want the goddess experience on their doorstop and not just in London.

New categories will include handbags and shoes, fragrances and gifts, lingerie and eyewear. We are also re-launching bridal wear, and the future is likely to see the creation of an online store - although this doesn't compare to the experience of coming in store and playing dress up with the clothes. The clothes are such beautiful creations, and the cut and feel is so wonderful. You can't recreate the enjoyment of trying on clothes and living the goddess experience without entering the store.

Fashionista wishes a very warm 15th birthday to the Maria Grachvogel brand - which is only 1 year older than Maria was when she took her first collection to London Fashion Week to show to journalists and designers. Bought in 2000, this particular Fashionista still has her stunning Maria Grachvogel taupe bias-cut dress, which is as current today as it was then and does exactly what it was intended to do. For the hours Fashionista is wearing her Maria Grachvogel dress, she certainly feels less "real woman" and much more of a "goddess"...

Jaeger: dressing women 125 years on

Originally the choice of adventurers on exploration to the Antarctic, Jaeger is now the choice of fashionistas on exploration to find a luxury brand which is fashionable, functional, fun, elegant, timeless. Jaeger has stood the test of time and for this it has much to celebrate as it reaches its 125th anniversary. The brand originally focused on the benefits of clothing made from natural fibres, and Jaeger (named after Dr Gustav Jaeger, professor of zoology and physiology and who poineered the benefits of animal hair in clothing) remains true to this thinking today, sourcing the purest cotton to the softest cashmere. Fashionista is thrilled to see that one of Britain's oldest brands is doing so well and not only fighting off the competition, but challenging and directing it.

There is much to be said for a birthday fanfare. In the current economic doom-and-gloom, it is refreshing to see a brand with something to celebrate. The psychological message is strong: this is a brand that is not buckling under the pressure of the economy. Its longevity is a testament to the strength of the brand, reinforcing its reputation as a serious player in the fashion world and increasing customer appeal. If the brand sends out such an encouraging message, customers will surely be encouraged by what the brand provides. After all, surviving 125 years in an industry where the customer is faced with immense choice and loyalty can be fickle suggests that Jaeger is doing something very right.

To celebrate its 125th birthday, Jaeger is honouring its heritage with the help of fashion curators Amy de la Haye and Judith Clark from London College of Fashion, who hosted an exhibition at the London College of Fashion earlier this year showing pieces from Jaeger's archives and who have co-authored the book "Jaeger 125". Fashionista turned the pages of the book with fascination, as she was taken on a journey illustrating the history and development of this iconic brand and documenting its success. Jaeger has also launched the 125 Collection - a capsule clothing collection drawing its inspiration from the brand's archives and putting a modern spin on a few key designs from the 60s: the defining era in Jaeger's history.

For the Fashionista-at-Law Birthday Q&A, Fashionista was lucky enough to speak with Shailina Parti, Buying Director for Jaeger, and asked:

(1) What is the Jaeger brand?

Jaeger is an iconic, stylish lifestyle brand stretching from womenswear to mens, to fragrance, to home - built on luxury, quality, style and wit. Whimsical and fun, it does not take itself too seriously. It is confident and bold with clean lines and fabulous fabrics.

(2) Who is the Jaeger customer and how has she changed over the years?

A confident woman of 35 and older who wants beautifully made and well fitted contemporary fashion. At first, she touches the fabric. If it feels wonderful, she'll try it on. She wants to look and feel fabulous in what she wears. It used to be that the brand was perceived to be for mothers and fathers. But with Jaeger appearing at London Fashion Week alongside Topshop and other youth brands, and lowering the price point for certain products, it is now appealing to the younger fashionista, so that mothers and daughters have a one-stop shop for their fashion needs. Jaeger dresses women, certainly. But the menswear collection does surprisingly well amongst young men who, armed with their first big paycheque or bonus and wanting to treat themselves to a great quality suit, are increasingly heading to Jaeger. Menswear is hardly advertised. There is no PR drive. The quality and fit of the suits are the selling point.

(3) What inspires Jaeger?

Everything around us: vintage markets, films, art. Exhibitions at London museums are a regular source of inspiration. You can guarantee that if there is a Byzantine exhibition in a museum, you will see Byzantine inspired pieces appearing on the market shortly after. Importantly, Jaeger's own archives are a great inspiration, showing that great designs transcend time.

(4) What does the future hold for the brand?

Further development of the luxury lifestyle values. The Internet has provided an incredible sales platform, allowing the brand to reach a far wider audience and attracting: new and younger customers; those who may not otherwise have entered a store; customers who are time-pressed but know they can rely on the quality, design and fit of Jaeger clothes; and - importantly - "Rural Fashionistas" who may be after catwalk items which are only available online or in the Regent Street flagship store. An online presence goes hand-in-hand with the brand's international expansion and Jaeger's plans to broaden the range of products, introducing a larger range at a more accessible price point to rival top end high street favourites such as Hobbs and Reiss, together with expanding the Jaeger Black demi couture range for that ultra-special piece.

Fashionista happily remembers raiding her mother's wardrobe as a little girl and dressing up in beautiful Jaeger pieces. A few decades later, and Fashionista is raiding her own wardrobe to dress up in her own beautiful Jaeger pieces. In the words of one of the iconic brand's early advertising slogans: "We don't sell clothes, we dress women". Fashionista says: Happy Birthday Jaeger, and thank you for dressing us so well!

This is not just any sale. This is the M&S 125th anniversary sale...

Hundreds of shoppers queued patiently outside select Marks & Spencer stores today as M&S boss Sir Stuart Rose - together with Twiggy, one of the faces of M&S - announced that the Penny Bazaar was now open. Fashionista was at the flagship London store at Marble Arch at 9am this morning when Sir Rose made his announcement, informing shoppers (and the media) that M&S is celebrating its 125th birthday this year by returning to its Penny Bazaar roots and hosting a 3 day sale of a range of 20 products (ranging from jewellery to teatowels) for 1p each. Every "Penny Bazaar" penny raised will increase the pot for the M&S 125 Charity Challenge, which aims to raise £1.25 million for local and regional charities.

Having seen the TV advert and read the press release, Fashionista had hoped to buy one of her "up-to-a-maximum-of-5-per-customer" pieces of M&S anniversary memorabilia this morning. Alas, hundreds of others had the same idea and the queues outside both the Marble Arch and Oxford Circus stores were so long that Fashionista couldn't see where they ended. Not wanting to admit defeat, Fashionista will - of course - try again tomorrow.

This is a great marketing move because it taps into nostalgia towards one of our oldest brands which in turn reminds consumers of brand value and loyalty - something which is increasingly valued by brand owners in the current economic climate. Although no profit will be made from the Penny Bazaar sales, the Penny Bazaar will pull immense crowds into M&S stores over the next 3 days and sales of full price stock must surely benefit as a result.

Well done M&S for reviving the shopping bug (even if only for three days...) and all for a good cause! Some deserved good publicity after yesterday's news of slashed dividends. Fashionista says "watch this space" for a further post celebrating M&S's 125th birthday later in the year as part of Fashionista's new, monthly Anniversary Feature. She started with Selfridges this month and has another iconic British brand celebrating its 125th anniversary lined up for June...any guesses?

Selfridges: delighting fashionistas for 100 years

Fashionista loves a big birthday bash, and is thrilled to see that one of the world's best known department stores is celebrating its centenary this year with great style. Of course, Fashionista would expect nothing less from Selfridges - the quintessence of all things fashionable.

H. Gordon Selfridge opened the doors to his famous store 100 years ago on 15 March 1909. To celebrate, shoppers are welcomed by a giant illuminated sign announcing "Open to the World Since 1909" which adorns the London store canopy and which sits above window displays which span the last 100 years.

Every weekend in May will see The Big Yellow Festival taking place throughout the Oxford Street store, hosted by the "Selfridgettes" who will entertain shoppers as they move through the store on the arm of Mr Selfridge. Clad in yellow (of course) dresses designed by Giles Deacon, they will be hard to miss. The Festival includes live music on Fridays and fashion shows on Saturdays, where models will travel up and down the 2nd floor escalators dressed in the latest on-trend pieces, to soundtracks mixed by two of London's most prominent (and multi-talented) fashion designers: Giles Deacon and Henry Holland.

Fashionista doesn't need an excuse to shop, but if she did, what better excuse than to strive to collect each of the limited edition carrier bags designed by Giles Deacon, Stella McCartney, Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood, which are only available during May? A worthy challenge! As for the purchase? Perhaps one of the limited edition pieces created by various brands (ranging from a Dualit yellow toaster to a yellow Alexander McQueen clutch) to celebrate Selfridges' 100th birthday?

All in all, an exciting line-up and a fanfare of a birthday tribute. As Alannah Weston - Creative Director of Selfridges - explains in the Centenary Magazine: "Our job is always to surprise, amaze and amuse, but amid all of that, to deliver that sartorial (or culinary) holy grail". Fashionista says: congratulations Selfridges - job done!

Good advertising has us believing that the future is orange. Well, for Selfridges and fashionistas everywhere, the future is most definitely yellow. Pantone 109 to be precise.